Over the Hills: Cycling in Medellin, Colombia

Editor’s Note: This is a guest post by Alan Malarkey.

It must be the most cycling friendly city in South America. Medellin is situated at 1,600 meters in a deep valley running North and South in the northern Andes and in the green and hilly department of Antioquia.

It is surrounded on three sides by hills, some occupied by high-rise luxury apartments but in greater part by the poorer ‘barrios’ such as Comuna 13 where once Pablo Escobar once meted out favors and rough justice.

His reign was fueled by the first Colombian multi-national, otherwise known as the drug cartel, Oficina de Envigado.

Medellin was once dubbed the murder capital of South America and was fraught with drug gangs and political tensions between rebels and paramilitary.

It is now much safer with a developing infrastructure and commerce, known as a city of innovation and an unparalleled cycling destination.

My kind of cycling is predominately road cycling and my usual aim is to leave the city and get out into the countryside and fresh air, covering between 50 and 80 miles.

I enjoy mountain biking and there is certainly an interest in back trails and downhill here, but I haven’t explored it.

Security

When asked what the security situation is like cycling in Colombia, I can truthfully report that it hasn’t been a problem.

Cyclists here have reached a critical mass and are revered locally and nationally, probably only second to football; that said it is probably prudent to keep to the better known cycling routes.

These are generally populated by fully lycra-clad enthusiasts, mostly with high specification American bikes bought locally from the brand outlet shops like Specialized and Trek.

You will see pro and semi-pro teams out on the hills and people of all ages, more men than women although there are some particularly strong female cyclists and teams.

I usually cycle with friends. Los Marielas is a club of around 40 very friendly and welcoming cyclists sponsored by a local beauty school.

For me, at least, there have been no security incidents during nearly seven months on the roads in and around Medellín.

Road Safety

The other voiced concern is about road safety and different traffic and driving conditions.

I would describe cycling in Medellín as moderately challenging but in some ways easier than my home city of London.

The roads are generally in good condition, and drivers, unlike some in the UK, have few prejudices towards cyclist. However they do drive fast, quite assertively and use their horns a lot.

Motorbikes ‘motos’ are more of a problem and they sometimes make risky right turn departures from main roads cutting in front of the flow of traffic – this requires attention and defensive signaling to prevent their bad behavior.

Rush hours are busy and best avoided – we often depart at 6 AM. Buses and taxis are unpredictable and will pull over unexpectedly but once you understand this you can take precautions.

On the plus side I have not had one shouting match with a driver and other cyclists are friendly and welcoming, usually with a whistled greeting as they pass by on the road.

The Cycling Experience

The overriding cycling experience in Medellin is one of hills. If you are a sports cyclist and don’t like climbing this isn’t for you.

There are five main exits from the city and all but one of them necessitate a climb of nine miles. Typically at an average gradient of six to eight percent, but in one case (Escobero), much steeper.

The most popular ride is to Alto de Las Palmas, a well ridden route, for me a demanding one hour and twenty minutes to the top.

Just over the brow, the reward is one of the best local restaurants where breakfast is served from open wood-fired grills on bare wooden tables hewn from huge tree trunks.

I usually have a modest pan de queso and cafe con leche, baked cheese rolls with milky coffee from a wood-burning oven, but locals might opt for the Colombian equivalent of a full English breakfast called Bandeja Paisa, which is composed of meaty blood sausage, crispy pork belly, egg and rice accompanied by agua panela, a drink made from sugar cane.

Mountain Biking, Stunt Cycling and BMX

As well as road cycling there is a lot of mountain biking, an accessible to all open air velodrome and a one and a half kilometer cycle practice track, the latter consisting of daily training from 6 AM and weekly league races.

Stunt cycling and BMX is a speciality and the facilities are excellent. On Sunday mornings and Thursday evenings, the city has road closures for cyclists called La Ciclovia opening 11 miles of highway and some inner-city roads to car-free access for all.

There are an increasing number of cycle paths and the city has a cycle loan scheme.

Notable Colombian Cyclists

Cycling is becoming evermore popular in a city that has been home of some of the defining stages of the South American Pro Tour circuit.

Current local heroes include Rigoberto Uran of Omega Pharma Quickstep and Mariana Pajon, world champion BMX rider.

Back in the day it was Martin ‘Cochise’ Rodriguez who broke the Hour Record in Mexico in 1970 and was and accomplished Grand Tour stage racer – he still rides locally and is an exuberant character.

Further afield from Medellin are some iconic rides and climbs, the longest climb of 90km, La Linea dwarfs the great climbs of Europe and the punishing Las Letras, 28km with some 14% sections, each ride taking you to an oxygen starved 3,000 meters plus.

Cycling in Colombia is worthy of serious consideration – for the road and club cyclists seeking new challenges and with a head for heights and spirit of adventure it can be a demanding but rewarding cultural and sporting experience.

As yet, as far as I know, there are no cycling holidays in Colombia but it can only be a matter of time.

I am back in the country between February and the end of April 2014, avoiding the UK winter and on my bike – I will be participating in a huge 100 mile 11,000 feet Gran Fondo event, La Ruta de Colombia on March 23.

I am happy to assist any cyclists attracted to this excellent destination – it is so good, I can’t really keep it to myself, can I?

_______

About the Author: Alan Malarkey is a member of the Addiscombe Cycling Club and can be reached via email at malarkey@tiscali.co.uk